Last weekend I visited Plaza Mayor again, and standing in front of that bronze equestrian statue, I suddenly realized that despite living in Madrid for almost two years and passing by it every time, I had never really learned about its origins. After doing some research at home, I found it quite interesting, so I’m sharing it with everyone.
Basic Information About the Statue
The equestrian statue in the center of Plaza Mayor depicts King Philip III, the monarch who ordered the construction of the current Plaza Mayor during his reign. The statue itself was completed in 1616 by Italian sculptor Giovanni Bologna and his student Pietro Tacca. It was originally placed in Casa de Campo and wasn’t moved to its current location until 1848. The entire statue stands about 4 meters tall, with a pedestal several meters high. The bronze material has developed a distinctive verdigris patina after centuries of exposure to the elements.
What Makes This Statue Special
To be honest, at first I thought it was just an ordinary king’s statue, but upon closer observation, you’ll discover many details. The king’s seated posture is quite relaxed, holding a baton in his right hand and reins in his left, while the horse raises its front hooves in a dynamic pose. Apparently, casting such a large bronze statue was technically challenging at the time, especially achieving a stable structure with the horse’s front legs raised off the ground, which required precise weight distribution calculations.
The pedestal surrounding the statue features relief carvings depicting court life scenes from that era. Unfortunately, many tourists don’t notice these details, as people usually just take a photo in front of the statue and leave. I recommend walking around the pedestal in a full circle—the details look different from every angle.
Best Visiting Times
Based on my observations, the experience of viewing this statue in Plaza Mayor varies considerably depending on the time:
| Time Period | Characteristics | Rating |
|---|
| Early morning 7-9am | Few tourists, soft lighting, ideal for photos | ★★★★★ |
| Noon 12-2pm | Most crowded, harsh lighting creates shadows | ★★☆☆☆ |
| Evening 6-8pm | Sunset bathes the statue in golden light | ★★★★☆ |
| Night after 9pm | Atmospheric lighting on the statue | ★★★★☆ |
My personal favorite is early morning, when the square has only a few scattered joggers and cleaning staff, and the entire space belongs to you. Photos come out without random passersby, and the morning light in Madrid really suits bronze sculpture photography.
Nearby Points of Interest
Since you’re already at Plaza Mayor, I suggest checking out other things around the area, including the New Year’s Eve celebration at Plaza de España Madrid. The buildings surrounding the square are typical Madrid style, with red facades and gray roofs. Each building has 237 balconies facing the square’s center. The frescoes on the exterior of Casa de la Panadería are also worth looking up at—they depict mythological scenes.
Additionally, there’s an archway in the southwest corner of the square leading to Calle Mayor street. Go through it and you’ll reach San Miguel Market, where you can grab something to eat after viewing the statue. Though the prices there are a bit steep, the atmosphere and food quality are decent.
While the Philip III statue isn’t exactly a must-see attraction, if you’re planning to visit Plaza de España and Plaza Mayor anyway, it’s worth taking a few minutes to stop and observe it carefully. At least next time friends visit Madrid and ask about this statue, you’ll have something interesting to tell them.
